Heres some background, sry for the lenght.

I have an Ultimate T3-1000d. It was running at 4 ohms for the past year an half. been good. no problems. couple days ago I picked up two new dual 2 ohm 12" Type R's. wired the subs in series and then in parallel(2 ohms). subs sounded great for a few minutes. but when ever I would really crank it the amp would go into protection. so I just keeped it quite for a few minutes. it started to go into protect more and more and then started to dim my lights bad every time it would come out of protection. it would only stay out of protection for a second or two in which time my lights would dim. amp would protect, lights got better and so forth. I shut the deck off and left it for the night.

this morning on the way to work after the truck warmed up good, I turned the deck back on. amp was red(protect) for the first second. It then turned blue(came out of protection) and my lights dimed BAD. there was such a huge short that my deck shut off. again, when the deck was forced to shut off because of low voltage, the lights got good. but then the deck tried to turn on thus turning the amp on and the HUGE short happened again causing my truck to damn near shut off. I ended up cutting the remote wire that was sitting beside me because the deck would not stay on long enough for me to shut it off and this was all happening while I was driving down the road. in the mess of all this, the burnt smell emited from the amp along with some smoke.

I pulled the cover off the amp at work today and see that one of the mosfets looks burnt. the three legs look toasted and the board near by has a brown colour. I then pulled the board out of the case and noticed that there are arcing marks on the alumin cover wher the mosfet touched it. I couldnt see anything else that looked wrong but I am not an expert.

could this one mosfet that touch the case cause my problems? is it possable that only one mosfet got fawked or do they kinda go out all together? any idea? Im going to take it to a shop on monday to have them check it out for me and get a better idea. just curious right now lol.

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87 Nissan Hardbody/truggy. Tube frame. full EXO. 39.5" IROKs. 18" FOA coilovers ft/rr. D60's. 5.89

4.3/4l60e/207/205-all sold. now putting a TBI 350, 700r4(.5"valve, corrvette servo, red band, shift kit), 203/205 triple stick.

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sounds strange that it would work fine for that long and then just poof after switching subs.

is there any chance you got the wiring wrong? if you accidentally wired to .5ohms that would likely cook the amp if you tried to crank it (combined with a huge voltage drop)

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2002 Chevy Trailblazer LT 4x4
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Alpine CDA-9885 :: Alpine Spr-176a :: Pioneer TS-D160R ::
Kicker ZX350.4 :

no way I fawked up the wiring. DMM says 2.1 ohms. using 14gauge wire.

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87 Nissan Hardbody/truggy. Tube frame. full EXO. 39.5" IROKs. 18" FOA coilovers ft/rr. D60's. 5.89

4.3/4l60e/207/205-all sold. now putting a TBI 350, 700r4(.5"valve, corrvette servo, red band, shift kit), 203/205 triple stick.

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I had a t3 1000d before. great amp, till one day, the same problem happened. The problem, a burnt channel and power supply. At least a 120$ fix. Its not you, its the amp, they were bad for it.

my first T3 1000d did the same thing. only it lasted a couple minutes compared to this one lasting a over a year.

see what the shop says on a price. I dont want to buy a new amp right now.

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87 Nissan Hardbody/truggy. Tube frame. full EXO. 39.5" IROKs. 18" FOA coilovers ft/rr. D60's. 5.89

4.3/4l60e/207/205-all sold. now putting a TBI 350, 700r4(.5"valve, corrvette servo, red band, shift kit), 203/205 triple stick.

______________________________/\/ / _\'' /\/\ ()_______________________________