I've built a sonotube before for my old old fosgate 100w rms sub. it was sealed and didn't sound too bad. not the best setup and not the most powerful. Now I'm building a new system in my newer car. I got a 10" Alpine Type R (1021D) sub and plan to power it with around 300-500w RMS. I was thinking because this setup is quite powerful I need to build it ported. I was also thinking of maybe spraying the tube with something that will give the sonotube walls more rigidity. I want a sonotube due to space and weight.

Anyway I could use all the advice I could get right now so please post away on the topic. I'll be building the tube next week.

I wouldn't suggest using a sonotube for a sub enclosure...If you're strapped for space, why don't you build an MDF enclosure (10 x 10 x desired length) for the 10" sub?
If you're stuck on the sonotube idea, I guess you can put a few layers of fiberglass resin on the inside...

__________________
smpl_gy running a smpl system...
one amp, one sub and 1.6 kilowatts of 50hz and below...

check out concepts on wheels' website... they have a "bass bullet" enclosure for a 12" sub... see if you can trade up the 10" for a 12"?

why wouldnt you suggest using a sonotube? imo they are superior than any square or rectangular shaped enclosure.less chance of standing waves to be created and due to the curved walls it makes it alot stronger.

Sassmaster, those bass bullet boxes look sweet but im going to bet they are very expencive

__________________

I would look for some 10" plastic pipe first but sonotube can work as well.

__________________
Paul Niwranski
1966 Cadillac Superior Crown Royale Limousine Hearse

If you're mirrors ain't shakin...you got taken...
RIP Member #8
Be careful what you wish for...

Well I already got a piece of sonotube that I used for my 12" before only this time I want to put more time and effort in it. Last time I bulit it in a matter of like 3 hours all carpeted and stuff. But it looked like s#!t and probably was leaking in places. I want to go with volume recommended by alpine for ported enclosure and then cut out the end caps to consist of 2 pieces per side glued together where one sits tight inside and the top part sits flush on top of the tube.

What size port I should go for, for best results? I want to get nice tight, precise but deep bass out of it. Would a simple straight port work fine? or do I need to maybe curve it inside somehow? Because I remember seeing one like that long time ago.

I'm not disputing the fact those types of enclosures are superior. However, to my knowledge, a sonotube is in essence a thin cardboard tube. I cant picture that thin cardboard tube effectively containing sound pressure. But my opinion is open for revision...

__________________
smpl_gy running a smpl system...
one amp, one sub and 1.6 kilowatts of 50hz and below...

I will use about 1.5 - 2 inch thick foam on the inside walls. it's not just the cardboard this way and I just actually did read somewhere else that tube design eliminates standing waves.

i see what you mean , i was under the impression it was anytype of material that created a round enclosure.renforcing it with fiberglass would be ideal.

__________________

The lingo I'm familiar with for an enclosure of that sort is "Bazooka" or "Bass Cannon"...I don't if those terms are still in use today though...

__________________
smpl_gy running a smpl system...
one amp, one sub and 1.6 kilowatts of 50hz and below...