 | |    | |  | | CCA Hoser
Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Gananoque, Ontario Posts: 359
|  Quote: |
Originally Posted by fauker  45 degree corners are you friend,, if you can get them perfect.
Long clamps and glue,, I use Weldbond white glue,, never failed me yet!
Using a brad nailer is good,, Biscuit jointing is the ****! If you can afford a Biscuit jointer router and the biscuits are not cheap either,, but you'll have a joint that's bullet proof!
Screw and glue requires (in MDF) pre drilling, and if your finishing, and I recommend anyways, counter sinking. Screw and glue will give you a strong joint, but you might bow your wood in the screw area.
You can also recess your joints (dato) joint is what's it's call I believe.
commonly used in shelving, and super strong as the one piece locks into the other, glue, nail or screw.
As mentioned, if you use glue and you have some gaps, you're going to need to sillycone to fill,, or if you use PL off the start, it;ll fill the little gaps you made.
But,, if you take your time, measure twice, cut once, use sharp tools and have a little know how, you should come out with a nice product.
If you like the way your box sounds, you can always coat the interior of the box with fiberglass resin. It'll soak into the MDF and seal the whole box up, and provide another layer of stiffness. You can re-inforce the corners with matting or cloth if you want, but essentially, by coating the interior of the box with resin, you'll make a box in a box, and it'll smooth too. | i use dato edges and biscuits on almost every box i build using the yellow carpenters glue (as well as screws drilled and countersunk) it's pretty effing strong for sure.
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|  | |   | | | | | CCA McKenzie
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Spencerville, Ontario Posts: 633
| white glue or carpenters glue is all I use.
1. Easy clean-up
2. Cheap in price
3. Never failed me yet
Anyways, This was a good thread !... I just hope nobody would be stupid enough to even think gorilla glue, that stuff is jokes, it shouldnt even be on the market, it sucks so bad.
__________________ 91' Olds Cutlass Supreme Int'l | |
| | | | | | | | CCA Golden Toque
Join Date: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,127
| I found gorillia glue works fine but its a pain to work with because you have to wet the joints before you pout the glue on because it needs water to cure. Also it turns white and foamy looking when it dries so any that seeps out really uglies up the box. Also its super sticky and if you get it on your hands its hard to get off since when you wash the water cures the glue on your hands | |
| | | | | | | | Supporting Member
Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Saint John, New Brunswick Posts: 121
| sounds like it's a urethane base | |
| | | | | | | | CCA Golden Toque
Join Date: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,127
| yes I beleive it is. Anyway I switched back to PL premium. Only thing I don't like about PL premium is that when it hardens it gets little air bubbles trapped in it so it looks all bumpy after it dries | |
| | | | | | | | CCA Hoser
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Edmonton alberta Posts: 60
| in thier dried form they are two completely different products. Ideally you got all your cuts right and laser straight, your joints are contact glued with a little bit of carpenter's glue (elmer's, probond, ect). If your joints are loose then you could use PL because it maintains flexability in a gap, but now you've got a flexable box. Do things right and use a table saw with a good low fall out blade. Use pro bond and clamps. Let it set for DAYS. Or half ass it and use PL and fill the gaps, hope for a magic beta resonance.
There is the speed bonus to PL 500 that should be noted, it's acetone based while wood glue is water based. To truely "cure" in MDF carpenter's glue takes a couple of days where as the PL premium is stiff in hours. Problem is it's "stiff" vs "solid". Either way the average installer won't notice the difference unless the box is cut with a hatchet. | |
| | | | | | | | CCA Back Bacon
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: British Columbia Posts: 42
| LOL i do carpentry for a long time now even if you buy frigin cheep 3 dollar glue it will hold, the wood breaks before the glue will give. | |
| | | | | | | | Supporting Member
Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 540
| | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Dukk You'll get as many conflicting answers here as at different shops. IMO if you can create tight joints then wood glue is all that is needed. If you're cuts are not so good then thicker goop like PL is a better idea. |
Exactly, wood glue is great if your joints are tight. If you have sloppy joints PL would be better for filling the gaps.
Ultimately a box with tight joints and wood glue will be stronger than a box with sloppy joints and PL. | |
| | | | | | | | CCA Hoser
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Edmonton alberta Posts: 60
| the logic on everything I've ever read on it is that you want a rigid, non flexing seam so that resonance doesn't occur in a wall that has a "springy" bond. I think it's all sound thinking, but there's probably no difference between any product you use as long as it sticks. Like Lonewolf said, MDF will tear apart from flexi silicone let alone proper glues so use what you want as long as you get a nice joint.  | |
| | | | | | | | CCA Back Bacon
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: British Columbia Posts: 42
| | Quote: |
Originally Posted by rorybreaker the logic on everything I've ever read on it is that you want a rigid, non flexing seam so that resonance doesn't occur in a wall that has a "springy" bond. I think it's all sound thinking, but there's probably no difference between any product you use as long as it sticks. Like Lonewolf said, MDF will tear apart from flexi silicone let alone proper glues so use what you want as long as you get a nice joint. | you got that right  | |
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