Anybody knoew what shop supply Optima Yellow tops???

Need one bad every time I stop at a red light my truck starts to sputter cuz my voltage drops due to the stereo! [img]smile.gif[/img]

but when I'm movving all is OK!!

How about a H.O. alternater and unpgrade the wiring under the hood first?
You might find a bigger alt for about the same price as a yellow top and it would be much more beneficial.

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Pioneer - MB Quart - OZ
http://www.cardomain.com/id/37554
"Your sister is hot but your mom does that thing with her tongue..."

^^ I agree.. that is probably more due to the alternator than the battery.

What does your setup consist of?

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2000 Acura 1.6EL Premium<br />IASCA SQ Competitor - Street Smart 1-600W<br />Sound Domain Page: <a href="http://members.sounddomain.com/turbolemon" target="_blank">Mike's Acura</a>

My set up consist of:
Kicker 4X6 in the Dash
Kicker 4X10 in the A pillar
Both those pairs are powered by a 300.4 Kicker amp
Then I have 2 12" DVC HE Punch RF subs in a sealed box with a little under 1 cubic foot for each sub
Powered by a Kicker 600.4
I have a 1 Farad Stinger Cap
And 4 Gauge power wire to the cap
4 gauge going to the 600.4
8 gauge going to the 300.4
same for grounds

And my HU is a Clarion DXZ835MP

What about the connections between the Alternator and the battery. Is the battery grounded to the chassis with 4-awg (actually, should be more than 1)?? Then you need to diagnose. Why isn't the alternator putting out at idle. I know mine doesn't because of the underdrive pulley, but most stock setups should... I don't think the battery is going to fix it, only patch it.

as far as I know the ground is the same from factory. all i have done so far is the stereo.

anybody know it's a 1991 S-10 that has the 4.3L Auto long box 2 wheel drive.