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Old 09-04-2003, 06:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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CCA Golden Toque
 
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Ok I cut my main power wire too short when I mounted my amps behind the seat. Now i want to move them to the trunk again but dont wana buy a new roll of power wire to run since I have a whole bunch of scraps in my garage.

So question is: I have a spare 4 awg fuse holder so I was wondering if I can use that inline and attach 2 pieces of the wire together to make the length longer. I know they have special connecotrs for this like big butt connectors but I dont want to spend more money.

Would I get alot of resistance by doing this and a voltage drop opposed to just running 1 single long run.

thanks.
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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CCA McKenzie
 
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The cost of These large butt connects are peanuts, but if you want to use what you have, that will be fine. You will hear nothing. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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CCA Golden Toque
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by slow/n\low:
The cost of These large butt connects are peanuts, but if you want to use what you have, that will be fine. You will hear nothing. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
thanks Slow [img]smile.gif[/img]

question about the butt connectors.

These are the kind I have seen:



Im just wondering if the whole outside of it conducts as well? Is it solid metal? If so if I put it under my carpet and it touched the metal It would blow the fuse, or are these insulated somehow (cant see from the pic).
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Old 09-04-2003, 02:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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^ Those are not insulated at all, electrical tape and split loom would be in order.

Try baring about an inch of wire from each end, fray it, and work the ends together until they are well entwined. Then solder it all using a minitorch. I've seen people just tape it really well after meshing the wire together but soldering adds some pull-apart security.
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Old 09-04-2003, 02:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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CCA Golden Toque
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dukk:
^ Those are not insulated at all, electrical tape and split loom would be in order.

Try baring about an inch of wire from each end, fray it, and work the ends together until they are well entwined. Then solder it all using a minitorch. I've seen people just tape it really well after meshing the wire together but soldering adds some pull-apart security.
Paul: would the voltage loss/res be neglegable (sp) just like if you solder 2 pieces of speaker wire together its not a big deal.
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Old 09-04-2003, 04:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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CCA McKenzie
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by loudsubz:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Dukk:
^ Those are not insulated at all, electrical tape and split loom would be in order.

Try baring about an inch of wire from each end, fray it, and work the ends together until they are well entwined. Then solder it all using a minitorch. I've seen people just tape it really well after meshing the wire together but soldering adds some pull-apart security.
Paul: would the voltage loss/res be neglegable (sp) just like if you solder 2 pieces of speaker wire together its not a big deal. </font>[/quote]loudsubz; I don't think Dukk would recomend it if it did cause any practicle loss / added resistance. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

There are also more industrial type butt conn that would be cheaper than Stinger. Some use a special tool to crimp. I've done some 4awg crimping with a vice and it worked fine. If you can get your vice off the bench you could bring it into the car to crimp that end [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img]

Gene
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Old 09-05-2003, 01:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
Cool
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I'd rather see a well done spice than rely on a metal tube with a couple of impingement points to carry the current.

I have a couple of boxes of gold 4ga butt crimps but I have never used them for that [img]smile.gif[/img] They make nice gold standoffs though [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
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