You can run the tweet in HP and the midrange BP with the front inputs, then use the sub outputs for midbase with only LP (one might want BP here to), you end up wasting your rear output since they are only HP so you don't use them, the guy wouldn't even get to use the base controller since it would control his midbases, so his DQXS wouldn't control the subs.

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Please SQ'se my SPL'ing

now you are going to get me to play with the dqxs that i have

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EVERY FAMILY HAS A RETARD IN IT. IF YOU THINK THAT YOURS DOESNT HAVE ONE, THEN ITS PROBABLY YOU.

Try the DQXS, it's a nice piece. I suggest getting the DDC for it when u can, it makes tuning much easier compared to your EQT's.....no more running to the back of your car to make adjustments.

If your just wanting to save money then there's nothing wrong with getting the 6xs either.......except buying more RCA's and extra xover modules if you want to experiment with your xover points.

For the DQXS, use the sub out for sub, the highs for tweets, the bandpass front mid out for midrange and the rear highpass for midbass. You need to then incorporate a low pass for the midbass but most amps have built in crossovers that go up to ~400hz which is plenty.

Not exactly ideal though. Get the Alpine

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Paul Niwranski
1966 Cadillac Superior Crown Royale Limousine Hearse

If you're mirrors ain't shakin...you got taken...
RIP Member #8
Be careful what you wish for...

or. if your trying to accomplish a 4 way active setup. *cough* u could get a head unit+processor that is built for it. alpine and PIONEER come to mind.

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Pioneer DEX-P90rs + DEQ-P90rs (from europe)
Front Stage - Focal Utopia Be No.7 (active) Focal Utopia Be 13ws (x2)
Front Stage + More Bass - JL Audio 8w7 (x2)
For Beating Brains Out - JL Audio 12w7
Amps - JL Audio 300/4 (tweets/mids) JL Audio 450/4 (mid-bass/subwoofer) JL Audio 500/1 (8w7's) JL Audio 1000/1 (12w7)
250amp Alternator, Stinger SP1700 (battery)
All Monster Cable (lots of it)