My stereo draws too heavy on my stock 80 amp alternator. The stock location on the engine (1993 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Liter 16V) is very small. Thinking hard about it, I have decided that I can live without my air conditioning and thinking about removing my AC pump for Higher Output Stinger Alternator. I figgure if I am doing that I might as well keep my stock alternator, rebuild it and use it to run my car and lights. Keep the High Output for my stereo, 12 Volt Cooler Setup and Inverter + Optima Yellow Top battery (To be Installed. First attempted used Deep Cycle marine and cooked it slowly) I am not interested in being told to install a Capacitor. This problem is from an overworked alternator and I am not posting here to debate the purpose and functionality of a capacitor. I already have a 1.5 farad Capacitor and it does a wonder on keeping the power to my amp constant (when it can). I have the following questions:

Are they any downsides to having Dual Alternators with separate power circuits and using same ground return (Frame / Body of Car)?

Would it be wise to isolate everything that runs on the High Output Alternator on an isolated circuit by grounding directly back to the alternator instead of through body?

What would be a wise choice for a battery to run stereo circuit? I have been told Dual 6 Volt golf cart batteries, Optima power cells (Gell?) I would prefer to keep my battery directly connected to the circuit opposed to isolating it, but I am open to suggestion.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Robert Hahn.

How many amps is your sound system really drawing???,have you figured that out.

I have i think only 105-110 stock alot on my 01 cavy and didn't have any problems when i had my system.

I think two alts would be over kill unless you plan on doing something like steve meade has in his tahoe with those 4 18's.

I would say just a 200 amp alt with two batterys

But tell us how many amps of current you think your running

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2001 Chevrolet Cavalier
www.cardomain.com/id/black_z24_14

2003 GMC JIMMY SLS
www.cardomain.com/Id/Jimmys4life

I am running a Clarion DPX1001.1 to my subs. The amp is Aprox. 400 watts @ 4 Ohm, 1000Watts @ 2 ohm and 1500 Watts @ 1 Ohm. The amp is 1 Ohm Stable and doesn't have a Wattage rating on it. This amp is a power house and I believe it was seriously under rated. I want to run it at 1 Ohm. So I roughly figure that amp could draw 110 amps on a good hit. 1500Watts / 13.8Volts = 108.69. (This is not taking into account wiring resistance or anything)

The second amp I am running is a clarion APX640.4 running my Internal speakers for my car + a Terminal in the trunk that allows me to hook up 4 additional 6x9s on stands for sound outside the car during parties putting a 2 Ohm load on all 4 channels of the amp. Its rated at about 160 watts a channel @ 4 ohms I believe. I would say this amp is capable of drawing about 45 amps. (640 Watts / 13.8 Volts = 46.37) Now I know that I am only driving Mids and Tweets off it, which is much less of a draw than subs, but there will also be a higher draw when I am running 2 ohms at parties so I went with 45 amps.

I also have an 800 Watt inverter I use very infrequently to power a few lights and what not and I have a 12Volt cooler built in to the car to chill my case of beer. Which gets used during the parties as well. I would like enough power from this alternator to power everything since I am forking the cash to do this mod. So i say maybe 60 amps additional to power the inverter which i doubt i would ever peak + Cooler + Multimedia Deck & Accent Lighting in the car.

Sub Amp: 110
Speaker Amp: 45
Accessories: 60

Totall: 215 amp.

Its pretty high estimates but I want to be sure I can supply the demand and know my additional batteries are charged or can be charged when needed. The big advantage i see to the second alternator is none of this draw will affect my driving lights or car in any way. What are your thoughts?

Damn!!!!

Well if thats the case i still say just get one nice alt and leave the AC as it does come in handy.

i would really look into a 250 alt or even see if you can get a 300 amp alt

I know what clarion amp your talking about for your subs and didn't really think it had a draw that high.I was thinking more like 80

It looks like you have a really good handly on your electrical system to what you want.So just do the dual alts if you really want to

__________________
2001 Chevrolet Cavalier
www.cardomain.com/id/black_z24_14

2003 GMC JIMMY SLS
www.cardomain.com/Id/Jimmys4life

Yes having AC in ontario during the summer is definately nice. The problem i face is having to fit a 300 amp alt into the space for my stock alternator. Its not like I have a chevy big block and room galore under the hood The space for my stock alternator is very small. Where as I have more room where my AC pump is. (which i don't understand because the pump is actually quite small as well.) I am pretty sure I want to do the dual alts. I am just wondering about a couple questions I was hoping this forum may be able to answer for me.

Are they any downsides to having Dual Alternators with separate power circuits and using same ground return (Frame / Body of Car)? IE Ground Loops.

Would it be wise to isolate everything that runs on the High Output Alternator on an isolated circuit by grounding directly back to the alternator instead of through body?

What would be a wise choice for a battery to run stereo circuit? I have been told Dual 6 Volt golf cart batteries, Optima power cells (Gell?) I would prefer to keep my battery directly connected to the circuit opposed to isolating it, but I am open to suggestion.

Just have a small case alt built to your specs and all the problems are sovled

__________________
2001 Chevrolet Cavalier
www.cardomain.com/id/black_z24_14

2003 GMC JIMMY SLS
www.cardomain.com/Id/Jimmys4life