I usuall y replace the moisture barrier with a solid sheet of deadning and dead'n as much of the door skin as I can reach as well takiing carefull attention to clean all dust and grease with a good wax grease remover(brakeclean works well) to prevent the sound deadning from ever coming away from the metal and binding up the window mech
No, get the vapour barrier back on and give those speakers the love they deserve. Get the rest of that door deadened on the inside of the outer skin. It is a big metal gong in there. I can hear it resonating all the way over here.
ya i hear ya... now a days on most doors i have seen its thinest metal possible on earth. and these are no exception.
I usuall y replace the moisture barrier with a solid sheet of deadning and dead'n as much of the door skin as I can reach as well takiing carefull attention to clean all dust and grease with a good wax grease remover(brakeclean works well) to prevent the sound deadning from ever coming away from the metal and binding up the window mech
Luckily for me there is nothing like working on a brand new vehicle.
Likewise! I would like to also know where the cables were passed through, as I have no idea where to pass the power wires from the battery to the amp. Can someone take a picture of the firewall on the Escape 2008?
Likewise! I would like to also know where the cables were passed through, as I have no idea where to pass the power wires from the battery to the amp. Can someone take a picture of the firewall on the Escape 2008?
You can follow the loom from the fuse box through on the driver's side for just about all sizes, although a 2 or 1/0 might be a squeeze.