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Old 07-01-2008, 09:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
CCA McKenzie
 
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nice job lol
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02 GRAND CARAVAN SPORT

SPEAKERS: -6 1/2" component from energy still to come concidering alternatives
-2x Massive audio CW12 in 4.2cf dual chamber square ported at ~35hz

Amps: -DD SS1
-KAC-745

Upgrades: -160 amp alt. maybe
-4 gauge wiring (done)
-0 gauge BIG 3 (done)
-sound deadning the shit out of the van somewhat not done yet
?????????
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Old 07-01-2008, 10:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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i had thought about that and wondered wether there would be advantages or not... if i have leftover matting, i probably will put a couple pieces on the holes that aren't used for anything... it would probably cut down on the vibration a bit actually, now that i think about it. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 07-01-2008, 10:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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well to cut fibrations you would have to fill in the holes with figerglass then mat on it and make it so you can take it off just in case you need access in the door
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02 GRAND CARAVAN SPORT

SPEAKERS: -6 1/2" component from energy still to come concidering alternatives
-2x Massive audio CW12 in 4.2cf dual chamber square ported at ~35hz

Amps: -DD SS1
-KAC-745

Upgrades: -160 amp alt. maybe
-4 gauge wiring (done)
-0 gauge BIG 3 (done)
-sound deadning the shit out of the van somewhat not done yet
?????????
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You'd notice a definate improvment in your midrange by turning your entire door into an enclosure. Like danyman said, try sealing the holes with something stiff first, like fiberglass or stiff metal, than sound deaden both the inside of the outer skin and then over top of the reinforced holes (or ex-holes, non-holes.... actually, it's easier to sound deaden the inside of the outer skin first, then fill the holes)
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Old 07-04-2008, 09:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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okay, thanks warrior, i'll look into doing something to seal up the panels... anything that offers an improvement is worth doing.
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Old 07-04-2008, 10:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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tape over the holes in the door then f/g the tape (1/8 f/g ) remove tape then add matt to it and screw it to the door over the hole .this way you can fix thing later in the door if you need to
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Old 07-04-2008, 11:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Definatly a good way to do it, but I find it faster (and cheaper) to use sheet metal and sound deadner instead (you can still do that and make it removable.)
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Old 07-05-2008, 02:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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sheet metal and sound deadener sounds like it would be really easy... and very easy to remove if i ever need to get inside the door at a later date. For sound quality, would it be better to make an MDF ring and fiberglass a door panel enclosure, or would it be better to make a complete enclosure out of MDF and paint it to look like fiberglass?... im just thinking about the acoustic properties of fiberglass as compared to MDF.
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Old 07-05-2008, 08:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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put liquid sound deadner in the box of any kind and it will make it sound good you can get some at home hardware its liquid rubber for undercoating but also good for sound deadning put some of that in my door ( not done yet ) and it was a good improvement
__________________
02 GRAND CARAVAN SPORT

SPEAKERS: -6 1/2" component from energy still to come concidering alternatives
-2x Massive audio CW12 in 4.2cf dual chamber square ported at ~35hz

Amps: -DD SS1
-KAC-745

Upgrades: -160 amp alt. maybe
-4 gauge wiring (done)
-0 gauge BIG 3 (done)
-sound deadning the shit out of the van somewhat not done yet
?????????
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Old 07-05-2008, 08:46 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danyman View Post
put liquid sound deadner in the box of any kind and it will make it sound good you can get some at home hardware its liquid rubber for undercoating but also good for sound deadning put some of that in my door ( not done yet ) and it was a good improvement
so add liquid sound deadner in the door and fill the hole where the water comes out and what do you do to the holes on the inside of the door?
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